Vancouver in January is a quiet kind of beautiful. The air is cold but not sharp, the sea mist lingers in the mornings, and the mountains loom so close it feels like you could reach out and touch them. It’s a city that contrasts well with independent cafés and well-curated boutiques a short walk away and world-class hiking trails just a drive beyond that.

I spent just over a week here, covering a decent amount of ground but still leaving plenty for next time. The weather was on my side: blue skies, cool air, the kind of winter that makes you want to walk everywhere. I love reading city guides that cut through the noise, so if you’re heading to Vancouver, here’s what stood out: where to eat, where to wander, and where I’d go back to in a second.

Where to eat & drink

Selene – Aegean-inspired restaurant
Dovetail – Italian-inspired restaurant
Nelson The Seagull – Café & bakery
Batch Kitsilano – Brunch spot
Revolver – Specialty coffee shop
Saunter – Café
Maxine’s Café & Bar – Brasserie-style café
El Cafecito – Mexican café
Café Kitsuné – Parisian-Japanese café
Chamber – Contemporary restaurant
Cowdog (Oak Street) – Hot dog stand
Dear Gus Snack Bar – Casual eatery & snack bar

Where to explore

Stanley Park Seawall – Scenic cycling & walking route
Granville Island – Public market & creative district
Kitsilano Beach – Urban beach
FlyOver Canada – Flight simulation experience
VanDusen Botanical Garden – Botanical gardens
Capilano Suspension Bridge Park – Forest treetop walk
Yaletown Ferry Ride – Short city ferry ride
Out & About Boutique – Concept store & lifestyle boutique
Georgia General – Homeware & goods shop

First impressions & first light

I arrived on a Saturday afternoon to an airport that felt oddly calming. Totem poles stood tall in the arrivals hall, a reminder of the Musqueam, Squamish, and Tsleil-Waututh Nations, the original stewards of this land. There were indoor waterfalls. Passport control was a breeze. No one was rushing. Heathrow could never.

After dropping my bags downtown, I layered up and walked to the aptly named Sunset Beach. The sun was already making a slow, dramatic exit over the Pacific. The real magic came after. The sky stretched into soft lilac and peach, its reflection spilling onto the water. Small groups sat on logs and the sand, watching in silence. No rush. No phones. Just the shared, unspoken agreement that some moments are worth paying attention to.

Mornings made for wandering

Jet lag has its perks. I woke early and wandered the city before it had fully woken up, crossing the Granville Street Bridge to Marché Mon Pitou, a neighbourhood café where the coffee is strong, the pastries are impossibly flaky, and the dogs are greeted like local celebrities.

From there, I made my way to Granville Island. A second coffee was necessary, so I stopped at El Cafecito for a Mexican brew and a look through their house-made sauces and imported chiles. I love food shopping in other countries and stand by the fact that food markets are often better than museums.

The market was quiet, the air thick with citrus and fresh bread, fruit stalls stacked with produce I’d never seen before. I picked up a slice of Terra Breads’ blueberry bread, then wandered into Nooroongji Books, a reminder of why a Kindle will never be for me. Upstart & Crow, part bookshop, part literary incubator, was just as good. I left with Circe by Madeline Miller and Blue Sisters by Coco Mellors, would recommend both.

To get back to the city, I took the ferry to Yaletown. It was under $4, practically empty, and felt like a private boat tour across the harbour.

Where the wild meets the city

That afternoon, I took the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park shuttle from downtown. Canyon Lights was in full effect, the park glowing in the early dark. The treetop walk, wrapped in fairy-lit pathways, felt both festive and slightly surreal. I got a hot chocolate that was mostly whipped cream and took in the views. It was busy and slightly overpriced but worth it for one last hit of winter magic.

My honest opinion? If the lights hadn’t been on, I’m not sure it would be worth the ticket price. There are plenty of other free trails nearby.

The shuttle dropped us back at Canada Place just in time for another sunset. Different spot, same feeling. The ocean reflected the pinks of the sky, and the glass towers caught the last light. I would revisit Vancouver for the sunsets alone.

Eat well, drink better

Vancouver takes food and drink seriously, and so do I. The coffee scene is solid. Saunter for a smooth, balanced brew, Revolver for something more curated. Breakfast is best at Maxine’s Café & Bar, a brasserie-style spot with generous portions, or Nelson The Seagull, where the house-made sourdough is reason enough to go.

For dinner, Selene is the standout - Aegean small plates, thoughtful details, and a chocolate mousse that should be non-negotiable. Dovetail serves a spicy vodka pasta worth the hype, and their margarita is just as good. If you need a quick fix, Cowdog on Oak Street makes a great hot dog, and Dear Gus Snack Bar keeps it casual but well-executed.

I don’t usually go for chains, but Cactus Club in Coal Harbour has some of the best waterfront dining views, and Earls’ happy hour is a reliable go-to.

Bikes, seals & sea Air

One of the best ways to see Vancouver is on two wheels. We rented bikes and cycled the Stanley Park Seawall, following the curve of the coastline with views back to the city skyline. A seal bobbed in the water, golden reeds swayed against the glassy ocean, and we reached the final stretch just in time for, you guessed it, another sunset.

Where to stay

We stayed at Sonder at The Sunset in downtown Vancouver. Spacious, modern interiors, balconies overlooking Granville Island. A few details could use some attention, but overall, a solid base.

Next time, I’d stay in a neighbourhood. Somewhere with more of a local feel. I’d swap urban strolls for hikes through the forests and coastal trails. Vancouver Island is high on the list. So is Bowen Island, where I’ve heard Trail House Cabin is something special.

There’s still so much more to see, but for a first visit, this one got it just right.

On my list for next time

Slo Coffee – Minimalist café known for great espresso. Website
Le Marché St. George – A cosy, Parisian-style café. Website
Hey Jude – Beautiful vintage and lifestyle shop. Website
Annabelle’s – A chic cocktail bar. Website
The Coast Goods Incorporated – Curated home & lifestyle goods. Instagram
Mah Milk Bar – A Korean-Australian fusion café. Website
Dachi Vancouver – A highly praised farm-to-table restaurant. Website
Doe Coffee – Small but mighty coffee shop. Website
Plain Jane Ice Cream – Handmade small-batch ice cream. Website
Tall Shadow Bakery – Famous for their bread and pastries. Instagram

My life in travel: A winter week in Vancouver